Official Creality 3D Printer Ender-3 FDM DIY Printers High-Precision Printing Stable Power Supply Rapid Heating Up Quality Extruder Resume Printing High-standard V-profile Printing Size: 220x220x250mm

I researched this printer for quite a few weeks, before taking the plunge ... watching endless YouTube channels (CHEP, Teaching Tech, Just Vlad, Nexi Tech) ... it was those guys that helped make the decision to buy the Ender 3 ...Boy what a fantastic printer ... the first prints came out better than I expected ... very smooth and better than some of the YouTube channels efforts ...This is a no brainer 3D Printer, at this price ... it's the best bit of Tech I've bought in years ... I am now making the classic 'LACK Enclosure' for it ...The filament I bought, at the same time, was the SUNLU 3D Printer Filament (Twin Pack) PLA+ 2KG (Black-White), 1.75mm ... this filament went out of stock for quite some time but I just checked again (April 2019) and it's back in stock ...MY ENDER 3 NOTES:The Sunlu filament:With the above Filament, I used 60Deg 'C' for the Bed Temp ... and 212 Deg 'C' for the Hot End ... I used this setup for all my prints and seems to work great ...THE ORIGINAL ENDER 3 FIBERGLASS BED:The removable (not genuine) "Buildtak" bed plate (with fiberglass bottom) was a bit of a devil to get a proper bonded print evenly ... it worked OK after a few tries ... it still didn't seem to want to bond on certain parts of the bed ... there were spots it didn't like to stick to ... I even tried Pritt Stick ... that seemed to work but what a mess! ...NEW BED:After watching a few more videos, I noticed that a lot of people were printing on GLASS ... so I investigated and found a great supplier, on the Bay (seller: gcc-systems) ... this type of bed was a 'Mirrored Glass Tile' but cut to Ender 3 bed size, 220x220mm (they cope for other printers too) ... it cost about £14 and damn was it worth it ... the official Ender 3 glass base is £28 (ish) ... this new glass bed just clips on as before, with 4 small bulldog clips ...You do not need to prime the base with hair spray, Pritt stick or any other product, in order to get good adhesion ... the glass just needs to be cleaned properly ... after it cools down you start to hear little noises as the print starts to release itself ... so much easier to get prints off glass ... you get a nice silky smooth underside too ...Glass Bed Pre-Print Washing Tip:The thing I was doing wrong, with cleaning the glass bed, was using de-greasing agents like Isopropyl (alcohol), etc ... no, no ,no, and no! ... these agents actually leave a 'very fine' film of 'something' and so prevents the filament adhering to the glass ... even if they say smear free there is still a deposit left behind ...I discovered that you only have to wash the glass thoroughly with washing up liquid and dry it off with a kitchen paper towel ... do not touch the clean surface afterwards (use the corners) ... but to see if it is clean enough you need to rub your fingers over the glass while washing it, so you get that squeaky feeling/noise ... then you know you're done ... that's all you need to do ... and BAM! with the first print the filament stuck like glue, everywhere it printed ... success! ...After I had done all of the above, I recently watched CHEP's video (Older ENDER 3 vs New ENDER 3 - 3D Printer Review/Comparison) ... he experimented with 2 x Ender 3 printers (from different suppliers) and he had the same issue with the Buildtak fiberglass plate ... he said it was actually the fiberglass base that had blind spots ... so it's possible it's not as level as the glass bed ...GENERAL TIPS:1. To get the bed just right and level and without any slack (the main issue for wobbly prints) watch Just Vlad's 'Creality Ender 3 Pro - 3D printer - Unbox & Setup' as he is the only one, that I noticed, who shows you how to set the slack up on the slotted 'V' runners ...2. To make the printer even quieter I cut a few thick square blocks, from the grey packing material and put them at each end, under the base supports ... damn if this doesn't reduce the noise by a ton! ...I have attached some photos of the first set of prints I did ... all downloaded from Thingiverse ...If you're just starting out or thinking of getting a 3D printer then this puppy will do you proud ...

Excellent 3d printer, not too hard to construct and creality give your everything needed to get started quickly.The included sd card and reader has the designs for a scraper pre loaded so it is easy to try out with the smallish included white filament.Full of useful guides and links to the site for any more support. At this price, I can only say it is all a beginner to 3d printing needs and more!

If you read the positive reviews carefully you'll notice that many are actually for previous models rather than the neo. Perhaps the other enders are decent BUT the ender 3 v2 Neo is, unfortunately, a complete farce of a printer for a number of reasons.Reason 1:the 'auto-levelling' feature is false advertising - you have to level (or tram) the bed manually (which is not an issue and can be done fairly easily as with most printers). Creality's much vaunted 'auto-levelling' actually records a 'mesh' of the bed surface that the printer supposedly uses to ensure accurate prints... a great idea, if it actually worked. The printer (even once trammed / levelled) and with the settings saved proceeds to run prints with the nozzle either about 3mm above the bed , which is annoying and frustrating. You can 'tune' the print once it starts (ie 'guess / tweak' the z-offset required while it runs) or stop and restart the print in the hope that the settings you saved are finally used - on the second or third attempt this usually works.Unfortunately on starting some prints the printer plunges the nozzle into the bed damaging and scoring it - the lack of a z-axis sensor is a real issue...Reason 2:The build plate - I have no idea what this is made of but PLA really sticks to it - in fact it sticks so well is is basically impossible to remove prints from it. PLA stick to the bed like proverbial to a blanket - even the supplied scraper won't remove it.Reason 3:The control wheel - this is so 'flaky' and twitchy that it is a game of roulette to get to the correct setting option and enter the correct value.Reason 4:The control interface - quite often with all 3D printers you have to either load or unload and reload filament. Unfortunately using the NEO interface this is impossible to do - once you manage to actually get to the extruder setting and enter a value to load / unload filament you cannot exit the extruder setting.All you can do is wind filament in and out, the click wheel does nothing to exit the setting - no way back to actually print or anything else without actually switch the printer off and on again from the power switch.Reason 5:If it actually worked as a printer this wouldn't be such an issue (but as it stands it is icing on the cake) it takes a ridiculously long time to heat the extruder...Overview:What a mistake to believe the reviews and buy this piece of garbage. My advice is to avoid it and buy a different printer from another manufacturer.

The media could not be loaded. So far so good. It took me along time to build and set up. I would recommend watching videos online as the included instructions are difficult to follow.

Excellent printer. Seems to work best with pla. Any ABS printing of and size seems to come apart due to warping - and I’ve tried all the tricks to prevent!Missing the 5th star on review due to the bed material/robustness. There is too fine a line balancing temperatures, z offset and other initial layer effecting settings when trying to get the print off the bed. There is always material ‘welded’ to the bed after. IPS, acetone, soapy water all tried - nothing works. I even upgraded the bed and gets the same.