2.4" 2.42 inch 128x64 OLED LCD Display Module SSD1309 7 Pin SPI/IIC I2C Serial Interface for Arduino UNO R3 DIY Electronic - White Light

Did not work once received

Should have read the reports before I went ahead and got one of these... 100% of reviews focus on bad quality, not what was ordered, didn't work but most of all the conversion to I2C format isn't easy and IFF you aren't very careful you will damage it... why put a product into the market in a format that inevitably needs to be converted? Why not make the I2C an option at time of purchase? Mine is now in the bin

Don't buy

My model looks different than the pictures: 1) pins are on left side (looking at screen), 2) Instructions for switching from SPI to I2C are on the silkscreen, 3) no resistors under the ribbon cable. In my picture you can see the back of the module, with instructions on the silkscreen on how to change from the default SPI (R5 bridged, R4 & R9 open) to I2C (R5 open, R4 & R9 bridged). I did NOT have to disengage the ribbon cable. A couple notes: - The Adafruit_SSD1306 library works even though this is a SSD1309, and I highly recommend it. - When using I2C, the DC pin state determines the address. DC low/floating is 0x3C, DC high is 0x3D. - The RESET pin must be managed properly for this OLED to work, even in I2C mode. The screen is initialized by first receiving power and then (for Arduino) receiving the .begin() command. When .begin() runs, it resets the screen through the RESET pin and voila, you see the startup image. I tried a variety of methods to get it to work without connecting the reset pin, including a RC timer and software reset commands, without any luck **UPDATE - SEE BELOW**. You can connect the reset pin to any available output pin on your Arduino, just make sure to specify it when you initialized the screen object, e.g. Adafruit_SSD1306 OLED(128, 64, &Wire, CHOSEN_PIN) - There does not appear to be pullup resistors on the I2C pins. If you're connecting directly to an Arduino-like or anything else with I2C pullups, no problem, but you may have to add pullups for anything else like a basic multiplexer. Overall, works great. Bright screen, text is easy to read, fast response time, tons of versatility built into the library (text scrolling, simple graphics). Highly recommend for the price, if you don't mind a little setup effort. **** UPDATE **** I returned to my project after a while and started experimenting, and there is in fact way to eliminate the need for a reset pin. You can add a "power-on-reset" circuit onto the board, and it's super simple. Just solder a resistor from Vcc to the RST pin, then a capacitor from RST to GND. Good values are 10k ohm and 1uF. This circuit basically holds RST low during startup then allows voltage high after some short time, which accomplishes the same thing as a reset during initialization. Also in the OLED begin() method, i set the reset argument (the 3rd one) to false; e.g, display.begin(SSD1306_SWITCHCAPVCC, SCREEN_ADDRESS, false). This tells the initialization code to not attempt to reset the OLED on init.

Although this 2.4" module uses the SSD1309 controller it works fine with the SSD1306 driver I use for the 0.96 inch OLED module Amazon also sells. They are both 128x64. As others have pointed out, some rework is required to convert this module from the default SPI interface to I2C. Some genius decided to put three of the tiny resistor pads that require jumpers UNDER the flex cable that attaches the LCD panel to the board. After some study I figured out how to unplug this fragile cable without mishap. Two tiny black plastic handles flank the white connector. Gently sliding them away from the connector relieves the holding force and the cable comes out easily, To reinsert the cable push it back in and snap the two black handles back into the white enclosure. If you don't happen to have any zero ohm 0603 surface mount resistors handy (!!!) a simple wire or solder jumper works fine at each of the sites. You need four jumpers, one outside the LCD cable (after removing its resistor) and three under it as marked on the board. I power the board with 3.3V and confirmed that the RES pin does nothing--apparently it's only for the SPI interface.

If you want a guaranteed experienced full of frustration, this product is for you. Poor quality along with a lot of bad information telling you how to hook this up. It doesn't work.