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๐ ๏ธ Upgrade your rideโs backbone with Detroit Axleโs ultimate suspension kit!
Detroit Axleโs Front 4-piece Suspension Kit is a vehicle-specific replacement set engineered for 2011-2015 Jeep Grand Cherokee and Dodge Durango models. It includes 2 upper control arms with ball joints and 2 lower ball joints, all rigorously tested for impact, wear, and fatigue. Designed for durability and precision, this kit comes with a 10-year warranty, ensuring reliable front suspension performance and enhanced driving control.








| ASIN | B079CMRH8J |
| Auto Part Orientation | Drivers Side |
| Auto Part Position | Front |
| Automotive Fit Type | Vehicle Specific Fit |
| Best Sellers Rank | #21,302 in Automotive ( See Top 100 in Automotive ) #37 in Automotive Replacement Control Arms |
| Brand | Detroit Axle |
| Brand Name | Detroit Axle |
| Color | Black |
| Customer Reviews | 4.5 out of 5 stars 1,948 Reviews |
| Fit Type | Vehicle Specific Fit |
| Item Weight | 12.43 Pounds |
| Manufacturer | Detroit Axle |
| Manufacturer Part Number | 80374-4E |
| Orientation | Drivers Side |
F**S
Great product for a great price!!
Fits perfect. Great quality!
V**N
Good price for the quality!
Good quality....perfect fit!
R**S
Great Ebayer! + Great Deal!!
Great Ebayer! + Great Deal!!
L**E
Perfect fit but with accessory issues
My control arm kits came with the ball joints pre-installed. The construct and assembly of the parts was proper and showed no defects. However, it didn't have the ball joint retaining bolts as seen in the website, so I reused the old ones. The swaybar links were too big and couldn't fit my car so I reinstalled the old ones. Besides, newer types are sealed and dont have grease fittings but these do so they're larger (the body) and don't fit my car specifically. The ball joints fit perfectly. Note that to fit the joint into the spindle disconnected the tie rod first, and the brake assembly too. This allowed me room to twist and tilt/angle the ball to get it inserted fully. I used a pair of adjustable pliers to grip the ball lightly to prevent surface damage and turn it to the right angle. I tapped on the bottom of the ball gently and it seated fully. I kept the control arm retaining bolts loose to make the fitment process easier then tightened them to torque specifications. After the installation I realigned the wheels generally straight and went straight away to my service center/alignment shop. Now the front end is firm on bumps and turns. I recommend the parts that I bought. I'm planning to buy some of rear-end suspension to complete the setup. I'll have to do the alignment again but note that if you're doing the front then consider doing the rear components as well and save money on alignments. A few years ago I paid a little extra for lifetime alignments, so it's not an issue for me.
J**T
Control arms
ITEM AS PROMISED WORKS GREAT
D**E
Great purchase for 2012 Optima
Great quality product. Assembly was easy and fit like expected.
A**A
Exactly what we were looking for.
This product met our expectations precisely. The correct information was displayed, and it was a perfect fit for the vehicle we were servicing
M**T
Ranger 2WD COIL SUSPENSION!!!
10/21/24 UPDATE: After less than 5,000 miles this replacement is broken. 2000 Ford Ranger that drives 9 miles to work at 40mph on surface street. Unbelievable! 4/10/2023 UPDATE: After almost 20,000 miles exactly, the upper control arms are clacking again. I can bounce the front bumper and hear a snap/crack sound. It's the upper control arm on the driver side. Passenger side does it occasionally while driving. TIME TO REPLACE AGAIN!!!!! Make sure to leave upper arm bushing bolts loose--and tighten once the truck is on the ground. This loads/pre-loads it nicely and prevents premature failure. These are super cheap and WILL work, but they're cheap. There is some issue (from a wide variety of manufacturers) getting upper control arms to fit the old Rangers--these seem to fit. Just ordered another set (of the upper arms only, not this whole kit). These work on Ford Rangers with COIL Suspensions in the front. That means when you take off your front tires you see HUGE springs wrapped around you shock struts (and you'll also have a sway bar--which is NOT the same as a torsion bar). Many Detroit Axle products are for aftermarket front ends apparently, these work on stock 2WD Rangers. Mine is a: 2000 Ranger XLT 2WD 2-Door SuperCab 3.0L Flex Fuel with the COIL (spring) suspension in front (not the torsion bar). Take wheels off. Disconnect tie rod end from wheel spindle. BUY A SET OF 2 TIE ROD POLYESTER (RED) GREASE BOOT THINGS. Take off brake calipers (two bolts each on those are only 24 ft/lbs--my Haynes manual lied and said a crazy number double that, so I broke one bolt putting it back on)! Take bolt off upper a-arm ball joint and stick a big fork tool in there and pound off the upper ball joint. Disconnect two upper a-arm hinge bolts. Remove upper a-arm. This lets the wheel spindle/brake disc hang loose. Pound out lower ball joint (wheel spindle/brake disc will fly out--catch it!) Put in upper a-arm with hinge bolts. Put in lower ball joint: I found a 6" piece of pipe the same size: put the ball joint on top and used a 2nd jack to lift it up into place...hammer the lower spindle as the jack pushes up (a second piece of pipe helped so I wasn't bashing directly onto the ball joint). Put in grease fitting and fill with grease (you'll need grease and grease gun for the included fitting). Tighten all that junk back up....EXCEPT THE UPPER CONTROL ARM SWIVEL BUSHING BOLTS---WAIT UNTIL THE TRUCK IS BACK ON THE GROUND TO "LOAD" THE BUSHINGS BEFORE TIGHTENING. Emory/black sandpaper to clean the holes in the reused parts. Wire brush. Tons of Liquid Wrench. Various large wrenches and DEEP sockets. Torque wrench Extra cotter pins pliers TWO GREASE BOOT tie rod end thingies ($7 at Autozone). Big hammer / a 2nd, heavy lead hammer came in handy. A couple pieces of the "correct size pipe" or a ball joint press c-clamp kit thingy (rentable at auto parts stores). A jack (or two). Piece of wood to brace while pounding in/out lower ball joints. Grease and gun for it for the "Zerk" fittings on the lower ball joints (upper ones are sealed). Small pliers for cotter pins. Wheel removal stuff (the usual). Wire brush for cleaning threads. Big "fork" thingies my father had to aid in pounding between the joints to force the old ones off! This took FOREVER to do!!!!!! Literally 6.5 hours. About 1/2 hour finding replacement brake caliper bolt. About another hour gathering and putting away tools. Liquid Wrench everything while you gather other tools so it soaks in. These things are greased, but add more...and add more to your tie-rod ends too while you're at it! This was the first time ever on my (original owner) 2000 Ranger for these parts. All the rubber was old and ruined and all the metal was rusted, so removal was slow going. This is NOT an exhaustive list...just what I remember. My truck doesn't clunk randomly anymore! Mike from Detroit
G**H
Was a good purchase
Good fit, good price, worked well
A**R
Good
Itโs good. Fits perfectly
M**M
Good quality and fit.
DO NOT USE THE SWAY BAR LINKS. THEY FAILED IMMEDIATELY AFTER INSTALL Fit perfectly on my 2012 Ford Escape XLT. I didn't use the sway bar links as the ones on the vehicle are fine. But I have them in case now.
M**Y
Quality and fit
Product is good quality, perfect fit. installed with vehicle on jack stands, (no hoist) still not too difficult a job
F**L
Quality #1
Great product
Trustpilot
5 days ago
1 day ago