Minwax Wood Finish, Special Walnut, 1/2 Pint

I like Minwax oil based stains . I think the finished product ends up at a higher level than using any of the other oil base stains I've tried in the past. I'm not a fan of stains that are mixed with the polyurethane sealants as a single application. When the polyurethane ceiliant is mixed with the stain I don't think that you can control the absorption rate as well. Not as much as you can with a straight oil base stain alone. Then once you get the stain penetration and color that you're happy with you can then apply the polyurethane ceiliant/Spar separately. In my opinion the Minwax brand of stains has a deeper, truer and more luxurious look than any of the other brands. That includes the high price brands. I think using the Minwax brand polyurethane/spar in combination with their stain works the best. In the past I have sprayed the stain on as an application method. It's a good method for applying an even coat to a large area. Otherwise done by hand it may end up looking blotchy or uneven. In the past I like using a HVLP sprayer. I would use the same sprayer for the stain and polyurethane. When I would use the HVLP I cut the polyurethane/Spar with penetrol. By doing that it would make the polyurethane /Spar lay down, looking like a sheet of glass, sometimes I would use the activator known as ( Jap dryer) to shorten the drying time of The polyurethane/ spar. I've used this method for exterior and interior doors, cabinetry, moldings and trim. I was always happy with the results when using the HVLP sprayer. I have used HVLP sprayers that cost dollars all the way up to ones that cost over $2,000. Dollars. Even the less expensive ones always did a beautiful job. In my opinion more than anything that works classic ones made the job much easier but either way they always work well no matter what the cost of the unit. I have tried other brands that I was not near as happy with the results. I would definitely recommend the mineral wax oil stains and Minwax polyurethane/ spar. Myself I was never a big fan of the water-based products.

I’m using this for a wedding/vow renewal backdrop. It’s easy to apply. And it makes even pallet wood look expensive. It dries fairly quickly and looks nice and smooth. It gets in the corners and grooves of the wood very well so I didn’t have to work too hard.

Really pretty color. I had my front door refinished and it came out looking pretty and new. I look down at the threshold and the wood looked terrible. I said to myself I can sand, stain and polyurethane this so I got busy. Hopped on Amazon ordered my supplies. Sanded it down in preparation and went to work. I applied the stain let it dry added a second coat let it dry and than polyurethane. It looks great and new and goes great with the door. I ended up doing the other 2 wood thresholds at my house and they turned out great. Easy project.

A lot darker stain than I wanted. But good product

perfect for what I needed

Special walnut on different types of wood ( I don’t know what they are). I added 3 layers and didn’t wipe out with rags as the chair did not absorb the stain well as compared to the cabinet’s doors. Left them dry overnight then added satin top coat.

Priduct work well

I used this on a couple of hardwood gun stocks that were light colored like birch and ash. one was on a gun that was 75 years old. I sanded the old finish off with a electric pad sandre and also by hand to bare wood, smoothed it up with 420 grit sandpaper and stained it with the minwax special Walnut penetrating stain, putting a very even coat with a disposable spunge brush after 20 miniutes of drying I wiped it down with shop towels and then used 0000 steel wool to get a glass smoth stock and then used Tru Oil stock finish rubbed in by hand, gun stocks both look really good. I probably only used a couple of tablespoon fulls of stain.

Too small