Tri-Angle Sharpmaker Stones, Diamond Grit

This is the missing part of a Sharpmaker. The brown stones don't cut aggressively enough to remove nicks or change the profile angle of an edge. What would take an hour with the brown stones is a few minutes with these. I use the large DMT diamond plates for sharpening woodworking tools, so I'm used to not using heavy pressure. Some reviewers have said the diamonds fall off. Not for me with light pressure. Once you have used diamonds, you will quickly grow impatient with anything else for coarse sharpening. I use the diamonds, then side of brown stones, then side of white stones. I don't use the edges for anything except serrations if they fit, or the occasional hooked blade.It is true you can buy a nice diamond plate and a 4000 grit Shapton glass stone for about the same money as this plus the sharpmaker, but for ease of use I would recommend this for knives (not chisels or other woodworking tools of course). It's much easier to hold the knife vertically than to try to maintain an angle on a horizontal plate. Some people have built stands to hold their stones or plate at a similar 15 or 20 degree from vertical angle, if that appeals to you.If you are only going to sharpen short pocket knives, an alternative is to buy the lansky-style DMT aligner sharpening kit and get the optional ceramic stone for it if you want a polished edge.In addition to learning to feel for the burr and maintaining a constant angle, it's helpful to have a 10x triplet magnifier and look at the edge after each sharpening step. I see plenty of you tube videos where people will go through six waterstones in a ritual to get an edge, when a few more strokes on half that would remove any scratches with much less time. Look at videos from knife makers, not users - they don't waste time.

Expensive, but these are a must. If your knife ever gets too dull it can be really hard to sharpen with the brown stone that comes with the Spyderco sharpener. It is just too fine. These diamond triangles are more aggressive and a few strokes gets your knife ready for the fine work of the brown and white triangles.

I have had the Spyderco ceramic sharpener kit for many years, about 20. They work fine for most of my pocket serrated and straight edge knifes , if not too dull. For fine knifes I prefer to use a larger flat Arkansas stone. I got these diamond rods mostly for my serrated kitchen knifes, some of which were ignored for a while. The ceramic rods that came with a kit just required too much time and patience to sharpen . My hand hurt afterwords. I was going to send them to Wusthof to sharpen, but now during CV19 crisis they are closed. So I looked around and found these, new to me diamond rods. I read the reviews and was a bit concerned about the fit. No issues the uncoated end fits just like the original ceramic rods. I used them with about the same touch as ceramic rods holding the knife lightly and stroking down gently as if I wanted to whittle a piece off. The grit on these felt about like a 400 sandpaper, much more aggressive than the ceramic rods which are used best on semi sharp knifes to hone them. No problems with diamonds coming loose, that would take gorilla strokes. It helped to restore old serrated knifes and then I honed them with the ceramic rods. Now I will use the ceramic rods more frequently on them, mostly the brown one. I also use the honing steel rod that came with the knife set after every use, to smooth the edge.

First off I see people saying the sharpmaker doesn't work but it does! If you watch the video instructions they leave out the most important part which is your knife must be already at the angle the SM is made for. If it's not it will cause your blade to be worse off.You can't reprofile good steel with the basic brown rods that come with the sharpmaker and it would take a long time to do cheap steel. This is the mistake most people make and get frustrated.These Diamond stones will get the job done, they will cut quick and reprofile your blade quickly and effectively. If you are using your Sharpmaker to sharpen any knife other than a Spyderco you will need a set of diamond stones!These are well made and will last a long time, just don't apply pressure. Let the stones do the work, and they will quick.

PROS:- Aggressive diamond cutting edges quickly re-profiles blades- Effective with even the hardest tool steels and powdered steelsCONS:- Slightly larger than stock rods, which stretches out the plastic baseplate and introduces excessive play when using the standard sharpening rods- Can damage knives if used improperlyI had several knives (kitchen, hunting and tactical) that I had not properly maintained and which I was having trouble honing with my standard Spyderco Sharpmaker. Using these diamond rods, I was able to quickly reprofile my dull blades and hone them to a razor edge using my Sharpmaker.I would have given this product 5 stars, but the base of the rods is slightly larger than the standard rods (i.e., those that come with the Sharpmaker system) which stretches out the holes in the plastic base and introduces excessive play when using the standard rods. This has made it more difficult for me to sharpen but I'm figuring out how to hold the knives during sharpening to compensate for the slightly changed angle.Overall a great product for using the Sharpmaker with less-than-perfect knives.UPDATE:Putting a drop of dish soap on the base of the rods allows them to be inserted into the Sharpmaker without damaging it. Wish I had known this prior to initial installation...

Just sharpened up my Benchmade knife with an S90V steel blade. Wow, these diamond rods really work well. Starting tWith the diamond pair I went thru three sets of rods and love the result. A light touch here is really the way to go. After feeling the diamond grit work at very light pressure, I'm lightening up the pressure when using the other rods as well. Really works.Spyderco has made one end of the rods bare of nickel plating and diamond grit, so they fit easily into the plastic base. Don't know if they used to do that but I saw a fit problem mentioned in some reviews. Btw, you could use your coarse rods to slightly taper the ends of your diamond rods, making the insertion into the base even easier.Watch the Spyerco videos if you haven't already. Lots of tricks on using the sharpening system. I love it. Sharpened four kitchen knives this morning... Slicing those summer backyard tomatoes is more fun than ever.

Makes sharpening a dull blade easy.

The only reason I did not deduct a star is because I am not sure my only "gripe" has any validity.Anyone who has used the Spiderco Sharpmaker knows that the rods that come with the kit are able to be swapped end for end to insert in the holder. This allows for even wear of the rods over time, as you sharpen blades.These diamond coated rods are not swappable, end for end. They will always have to be inserted the same direction into the holder. It may not be an issue, seeing as the diamonds are so much harder than the other rods, so wear might not he a thing.The diamond rods really do a beautiful and FAST job of removing material on those badly worn or damaged blades. I am highly pleased with these rods and the Sharpmaker system as a whole.

They do what they’re supposed to do. Only complaints I’ve heard are that they don’t last. But then I’ve also heard they do last if you’re gentle with them. So I’m trying to be gentle. I’ll update in a few months. Darn nice to have a sharp chefs knife in the kitchen again, and the technique is easy as pie (though that old metaphor really doesn’t hold true, as any real baker will tell you- pie is not easy). Spyderco is a fabulous company.

Hallo,ich besitze nun seit Jahren den Spyderco Sharpmaker. Leider konnte ich diesen bisher nur eingeschränkt einsetzen, nicht ohne Grund trägt das Produkt inoffiziell den Namen "Sharpkeeper". Das Problem ist nämlich, dass sehr stumpfe Klingen, vielmehr aber Klingen mit einem größeren Schleifwinkel als 40 Grad, nicht effizient mit den zwei unterschiedlichen Körnungen des Sharpmakers geschliffen werden können. Es wird einfach zu wenig Material abgetragen, sodass zum Beispiel bei einem Messer mit 50 Grad nur an den Seiten geschliffen wird, nicht aber unten an der Klinge, wo man einen Grat erreichen möchte.Da der Sharpmaker nur maximal 40 Grad Winkel untersützt, muss man also die Klinge auf 40 Grad schleifen und demzufolge sehr viel Material abtragen. Das funktioniert mit den Diamant-Schleifsteinen super! Ich konnte mit diesen Messer in 10 Minuten auf eine Grundschärfe bringen und endlich einen Grat herstellen.Dazu sei gesagt, dass ich nicht die offizielle Schleiftechnik benutze, sondern für mehr Materialabtragung ungefähr 40 Mal auf einer Seite schleife und hierbei auch mit Kontakt am Stein hochziehe statt nach dem herunterdrücken abzusetzen und neu anzulegen. Danach wechsel ich die Seite und folge daraufhin der Anleitung und schleife wie gewohnt abwechselnd.Kleiner Tipp: um festzustellen, ob man auf einer Seite genug Materiel abgetragen hat kann man mit einem Filzstift die Schneide markieren, wenn die Farbe bis zum Grat weggeschliffen wird kann man aufhören. Auch liegt dem Produkt ein Warnhinweis bei ausdrücklich darauf hinweist, nicht zu viel Druck auf die Klinge auszuüben, da sich sonst die Diamantstückchen lösen können. Mit leichtem Druck wird auch genug Material abgetragen.Ich kann die Diamantsteine nur wärmstens empfehlen, diese sind ein absolutes Muss für jeden Sharpmaker-Besitzer, ohne diese kann man stumpfe Messer nicht effizient schärfen.

This additional set of sharpening "stones" for the Spyderco Tri-Angle Sharpmaker (actually they are a pair of hollow steel triangles coated in industrial diamonds) sorted out knives that were particularly dodgy (having been through the AnySharp Knife Sharpener -- not recommended!). A worthwhile addition to the main device.

Indubbiamente costose ma di ottima fattura e di durata molto lunga.Non vedo errori o difetti di sorta (a parte il prezzo, che comunque è legato alla qualità).Il sistema id affilatura è molto semplice e quindi molto pratico anche a persone non completamente in grado di affilare una lama mediante una pietra.

Ces barres ne sont pas données mais elles sont efficaces, j'ai pu récupérer le tranchant d'une lame vraiment très abimée en assez peu de temps, sans forcer (il ne faut surtout pas forcer sur ces tiges sinon elles perdent leurs qualités abrasives)