84996 Flush Valve

A little difficult to install but works great.

The internals of these toilets are not precision manufactured and slight imperfections in the ceramic can make it such that your new value won't fit without a little "adjusting". Follow these steps for a fairly straightforward install: Tools needed: a small file, utility knife, small hammer with a wooden handle (the kind where it's a little wider in one direction than the other) Step 0: Turn off the water supply to your toilet and flush it. Step 1: Remove the black seal from the new valve body. Attempt to dry fit the new value body by lining up the tangs when inserting it into the toilet's tank. Twist it back to vertical to fully lock the tangs into the toilet's tank. If you encounter tightness or issues getting it into place lightly file or sand around the edges of the round opening on the new valve body. You may also need to file or cut small amounts away from the valve body tangs to get it to fit your toilet perfectly. Observe the tangs on your old valve body to see if there are indicators of where adjustment may be needed on the new one. Step 2: Install the black seal onto the new valve body, remove the red flusher ball and the black axle that connects it to the back of the valve body. Step 3: Place the valve body into the toilet's tank, lining up the tangs so that you are ready to start installation. Insert the wooden handle of the hammer between the valve body and the back of the toilet tank. By twisting the hammer, it should apply enough force to the valve body to compress the black seal and drive the valve body deep into its hole. Finally, use your other hand to turn the valve body back to standing vertically, locking its tangs into place inside the toilet. Step 4: Connect one side of the red flusher ball back onto the plastic axle, then slide the axle back into the appropriate slot on the back of the valve body. With the axle fully inserted you can now connect the other side of the red flusher ball to the black axle. Step 5: Connect the chain to your flusher lever. Step 6: Insider the fill line back into the top rectangular opening of the valve body. Turn on the water. Let your toilet fill, and then do some test flushes.

Worked as described, stopped my toilet from constantly leaking water down the drain

It was the correct part—I struggled just like everyone else. Here’s what worked for me: Let the rubber gasket sit in hot water for 2–5 minutes. While it's soaking, practice inserting the valve without the rubber gasket and twisting it into place. You should be able to do this easily before attempting it with the gasket on. It’s important to apply pressure with the valve flat—not at an angle. The valve won't seat properly if it's even slightly tilted. Even without the gasket, it’s nearly impossible to insert if you're pushing at the wrong angle. Once you're comfortable inserting and locking the valve without the gasket, it's time for the real challenge. Enlist the strongest person in your house—you probably won’t be able to do this alone. Position the valve with the gasket in the correct starting orientation and press down with all your might. With the right angle and enough pressure, you should be able to twist it into place. In my case, the top two tabs went in first, but the bottom one gave me trouble. I managed to insert the top tabs, then squeezed hard at the bottom until it clicked in. Hope this helps—and good luck. If you’re reading this, you already know how cursed and annoying this toilet is...

Arrived quickly and had all parts needed. Perfect fit.

The seller was fine , the Flush valve arrived 2 days with prime (BUT) you better put your thinking cap on to install this thing . . It was probably installed at the factory by a robot which I`m not. I couldn't compress the gasket enough to mount it so I soaked it in real hot water for 15 minutes from the sink and coated the tank surface with Vaseline . I then put some plywood against the back of the tank so I could use the lever method to use a pry bar to force the unit in the mounting notches of the tank . After some careful wiggling and cursing I felt it pop in the mount and then twisted it slowly to the upright position . It took me about a half hour but all is working well with no cracked tank . I also used a couple of rubber bands to stop the float from filling the tank while repairing .The valves are under and behind the bowl and tend to leak after shutting off the water from not being used for years and I didn't need that problem this is just as good as far as I`m concerned . The directions warn of making sure you mount all 3 tabs in the mount before turning the unit to the correct position . Take the slow approach it always works better in the end ...You should have some general mechanical ability before doing this or the call to the plumber is the next step .. Hope this helped .. Good luck

This is the exact replacement part for my model of toilet. It is fitted into the front face of the toilet take near the bottom. This means reaching deep into the tank and pulling the valve toward you to compress it's seal enough to twist it into place. This is impossible. The thickness of the porcelain where the valve fits, plus the thickness of the sealing ring provided plus the lack of room to get any pressure or leverage negates any possibility of a person applying enough pressure to compress the sealing ring enough to get the valve locked in. Also, such pressure would probably damage the valve. I had to cut the thickness of the sealing ring down by a third before I could fit it - just! Luckily I understood the problem and had the tools to make the ring thinner without compromising it's ability to form a seal. I'm assuming that in the factory the seal is fitted by machine or the toilet is positioned in such a way that a strong person could get the leverage to do it.

This replaced the identical flush valve in my 1996 Rialto K3386 toilet. It was very difficult to install with the fresh and firm gasket. The problem turned out to be the thickness of the wall of the tank, which made it impossible to turn the valve into the upright position after threading the teeth into the 3 notches on the toilet wall. I could feel that the porcelain had little irregularities that made it too thick such that forcing the valve to turn could break off the plastic teeth (which is why I had to replace the old one). So I chipped the irregularities away and ground one one difficult one down with my Dremel. Finally, after much swearing, it threaded into place. I wanted to replace this toilet because it's too low and uses too much water. But now I'm stuck with it, it is in better shape than ever.

Works as expected, need "strong" arms to install for sure!

Exactly what I needed for my toilet. Easy to instal

Good product, fit was tight to install but works as it should. I would buy again if needed.

Ensemble équivalent à celui remplacé. S'assurer de suivre les instructions incluses et d'y mettre une bonne pression lors de l'installation.

Easy to install.