RGEEK 24pin DC ATX PSU 12V DC Input 250W Peak Output Switch DC-DC ATX Pico PSU Mini ITX PC Power

my build: i5 11400 Asrock h570 itx 16gb 3200 ram (2x8gb) Few things to know before buy it. 1.you can use only 12v power adapters with this psu. 2.it rated 250w, that means you can go up to 12v 20a, but realistically there are no power adapter that can REALLY provide 20a. Best i found on aliexspress 12v 16a, but its more than enough for your system i think. in my case i have right now 12v 7a power adapter, so i limit CPU max power consumption to 80w. And it works awsome. You dont need more than that for 11400. i get 7200 geekbench score with 80w, and 8100 with 125w power limits. I dont think i want give another 40w for just 10% improvements and more heat. 3.This PSU have 8-pin power for cpu. Check your motherboard and find out which type of connector are your motherboard using (4 pin or 8 pin) 4.It has blue lamp, so be careful if you doing RGB build.

So I bought this to power a small computer system and this has done that task wonderfully. Though my experiments it has been able to put out over 150W without complaint. But here's the thing. A barrel jack connector like the one this PSU has is only able to really put out about 100 or so watts before the barrel jack starts to get really hot. I don't know about you, but I like my house not on fire. Granted, this issue is not really RGEEK's fault. I just think that if you're going to use more than 120W, you really should consider one of the units from HDPLEX or perhaps a Flex ATX solution. It's simply because drawing 200W through a barrel jack is just going to lead to problems. So if you're going to just use it for something low powered like an APU build or something like that, go ahead, but once you get to about 125W I would suggest going another route. Also you should just consider getting the 150W variant of this because it is cheaper and you're not going to risk the barrel jack melting.

Used to re-power a mini-itx based nvr in my vacation home. Machine is i5 and has two spinning rust drives so needs more than typical power. Last power supply gave up in the heat. This one gets warm but hasn't had a problem running 24/7 recording and serving for almost a year. Winter, Summer heat, and now coming around to winter again the machine never missed a beat. No problem fitting in mini-itx case with two drives and i5 heatsink and fan. Unit makes no sound and passive cooling from the cpu fan appears to be ok. Would buy again for my next mini pc build.

It powers my MSI B450i ITX Motherboard fine, and at the time I posted this it is the only PICO PSU that has a 4+4 CPU connector that is in stock. Also the cables were long enough to reach while maintaining some cable management. Now the flaws the power plug is fragile in fact the 1st one I got the tip was broke, and it looks like it was barely hanging on to begin with. The 2nd one was stolen during delivery (the postal worker handed me a empty package.) The 3rd one works but with the way that 1st one looked I installed it gently. The other concern is there is no grounding wire on this unit so that is not ideal on a metal case. When the PC is on if you touch the metal case you can feel a tingling sensation, and that is not a good sign. I do have acrylic ITX case that I can use this PSU in my next project, but for the one in the picture I did remove it from the case. I will just have to wait until HDPlex gets there PICO PSU back in stock. I will only recommend this for someone that has a non metal PC cases, and need a cheap PICO PSU with a 4+4 CPU connector.

It worked on my PC per se. After installing of this PSU, I could power PC and all seemed Ok. I then ran a stress test using Prime95 and watched statistics using HWMonitor. The peak power consumption was reported around 180W but average was around 160W - way less than stated 250W. The stress test worked for about 10 min or less and then PC shut down, which means failure. But on top of that it became so hot such that everything around was hot - I couldn't touch its wires, where it connected to a power adapter, I couldn't touch the PSU itself and even computer box was unusually warm. So it is risk of fire and, at least - it would damage motherboard and/or other parts of PC. On my current, regular, PSU I could run that stress test on the same PC for hours - actually once left it overnight and it never crashed. The only reason for this purchase is that I hate sound of PSU's fan, which is loudest even with best aftermarket fan I could find for that size. Looks like I'd better stick with noise of fan than risk with unstable computer and fire, literally.

I have one running my low power NAS 24/7 for over a month now without issue. Constant load of about 30 watts. The 12v 10 amp power brick + the internal breakout board uses about 2.5 watts idle on its own, and saves about 7 watts compared to my 450w ATX power supply at the same loads. My only complaints so far are how the cables attach to the internal breakout board. They attach at a right angle to the board facing the edge of the motherboard. This caused the cables to be in the way of a case fan on the edge of my mini-itx motherboard (had to remove the fan). I'd prefer if the cables came out parrellel to the board such that they're going straight out from the motherboard like a normal 12v cable.

If this is your first time using this form factor, understand a key thing here: This is a 12v DC-DC Power Supply. Read: 12v. It may appear to be "working" (blue LED turns on) when you plug in something like a 19v (ie - your typical laptop AC adapter) but you're simply just over-volting it. Fortunately, the shorting protection within this unit seems to shut off output under this circumstance. So, if you're plugging in your adapter and see a blue LED immediately - check your voltage on your AC adapter. The indicator LED should only be turning on when you've turned on the PC this is powering. Another KEY thing to pay attention to: The input jack on this is 2.5mm, which again is similar to a decent chunk of laptop AC adapters. When you're acquiring your AC Adapter, please please please verify the connector tip's size. There are a decent number of adapters that will fit the requirements for this this: 12v ~10a 2.5mm plug tip Finally, do pay attention to wattage here: This will output up to 240w, which should be sufficient for a good chunk of Mini ITX builds around. If you're absolutely SURE you need less, you should be fine with a power adapter that provides less than the 240w - but if you run into hot adapters, then you're likely needing something that provides more power (or, it could just be a bad adapter). This should save you a bit of time from the offset on ordering this item.

This PSU works but just falls apart too easy. The wires on one part were barely wedged in there and fell out without any pulling. Another couple wires that I noticed were loose ended up coming out from being bumped slightly. I'm only giving it 2 stars because it did power the computer before the wires fell out and after I hot glued them back in, so I guess it technically works. I'd like to say a picoPSU like this is good value for money, but no product like this that costs me $30 should be falling apart like that. At this point the PC is also powering off randomly when only pulling around 70W from this 250W PSU and a 120W Power Adapter, and I can't help but feel like it's because of this PSU having broken twice and being glued back together. If I'm trying to say anything positive, it was dead silent when powered on with no coil whine, and even when it was powered on once when I didn't realize a couple CPU 8-pin wires had come out a second time, it never caught flame or smoked, which says a little about it for a PicoPSU Look somewhere else or consider a FlexPSU if your system can fit it.

Good

Fits in a cramped space. No RAM or height interference. Stable power. Comes with 8 pin connector. Perfect PSU for mitx MOBO with on board graphics. Expensive! But me buying several other cheaper pico's that got too hot or were too big and too many cables yet with no 8 pin at all. This thing was cheaper that two of the previous mistakes combined. I like the fact the cables are sized for a small cases and specifically mitx MOBO. I did not need the sata power cable so I cut it off at the PSU and insulated. Kept cable for in case ever needed again. Warning! Only for use on mitx MOBO. Otherwise cables will ALL be too short. Also, this thing will give you MAXIMUM 120 watts! Any above that and the 12v power plug will start to smoke. You need a 4 pin DIN power connector for that and above. I wish these sellers would stop advertising them as non incindiary devices, it will ignite if you suck more than 150 watts from the mains. Don't say I didn't warn you,

I'm using it with an AMD Ryzen 7 1700X, which is an 8-core, 16-thread 95W CPU. This is a basic XCP-ng virtualization server. My system has Gigabyte B450 DS3H Ultra Durable motherboard, 2 sticks of RAM for 16 GB total, 1 Mellanox Connect-X 10Gbps networking card, a passively cooled Radeon 5450 (19W) and a single 2.5" SATA SSD. So not too many devices or peripherals, and low power consumption, despite the beefy CPU. It handles everything fine, even under moderate load. I haven't tried maxing out the processor. I'm surprised, to be honest, that it manages all this. Pretty great, the system is really silent because there is no PSU fan. This is the power brick I'm using: SHNITPWR 12V 10A 120W DC Power Supply Adapter 100V~240V AC to DC Converter 12 Volt 5 Amp Transformer 5.5x2.5mm Plug for 5050 3528 LED Strip Light 3D Printer LED Driver CCTV Security System LCD Monitor Only 120W, but it does fine. Recommendations I've read online are when choosing a Pico PSU, choose a PSU and adapter where your expected load is no more than 85% of the max provided by the AC adapter. Pico PSUs can provide more power at peak than their rating. The rating is for sustained load. However, the AC adapter cannot, and should run under max load to avoid overheating and shortened life time.

Out of boredom, I decided to throw out the internals of a broken original Xbox (the one that released in 2001) and build a mini-ITX PC inside. I wanted to have multiple hard drives and SSDs inside the PC, but found that even an SFX-size PSU took up way too much space inside, making it impossible to have both a PSU and multiple drives inside the case. Since I wasn't planning to add a dedicated GPU I started researching smaller PSUs and found this gem - the Pico PSU! It allows one to hook up a 12V laptop charger to a desktop motherboard, with enough power connectors for 2 SATA drives. Thanks to this Pico PSU I finally had the space for my SATA drives, and also more empty space meant better ventilation.

I got mine and tested it out on an older board first, it works. I have one feature request for future revisions: some kind of pull tab for unplugging the 24-pin connector from a board. This is something that would put my mind at ease instead of having to pull it out by the circuit board.