Smart RF Relay Switch eMylo Wireless Remote Control Switch DC 12V One Channel Momentary Module 433Mhz Relay Receiver with Two Transmitters

Works great. After I figured the wiring out the installation was simple. Setup was easy and both controllers sinked up quickly. My antique auto is now remote start and the remote switch servs as a kill switch.

Instructions on pairing is not correct. Step 4 Pairing: Hold programming button till light red, then press remote button and release programming button (the red light will not blink and just resets the whole unit if held longer). That seemed to work for me! Other than that, unit works great and has a very nice range.

I am an electrician so I know what I needed. It was a little challenging to get it to work until I realized even though the instructions says it could operate on 6 to 24vdc according to the instruction it did have to have 12volts for the relay to activate. I had 15vdc on my garage door opener so I supplied it with that voltage and everything then worked fine, I originally applied 6vdc. it lit up the leds but would not actuate the relay. The garge door shut from outside in my vehicle better that the original opener so it gets a good signal surprisingly. I tried another one and that was similar and it would not work at all. Very pleased with this one as now all is working fine.

This system works, but only for a few seconds. If you have it set to momentary, and hold the button down on the remote, you only get about 3 seconds, before the relay opens back up. Doesn’t matter which remote you use, or if the batteries are new. It’s like it has a “timeout” function. I set this up to activate an air horn relay for pest deterrent, and I can’t have it activate for long enough to actually do its job. Very disappointed.

Bottom line... once I figure out the wiring and the programming it's working great. Now the issues... Unlike some systems, this one keeps the wires for the relay pull in coil COMPLETELY separated from the contacts for the relay. So. Everything I say is for the 12 v model. To wire it you connect two wires to the IN terminals, what the instructs call cathode and anode. To the - you connect the ground wire. To the + you connect the hot wire. This powers the receiver in the module so it's always "listening" for a signal from the remote fob. Now, the other half of this thing is the relay side. Its terminals are completely separate. There is a COM terminal. From normal use that will be where you will connect the positive source wire which you want to control. In a car that would be the "hot" from the battery. It can always be hot if that's what you need or it can be hot only when the ignition is on. If it's the first, then you can connect it to the same place as the + IN wire; then it will always be hot. if you don't want it to always be hot you need to connect it to an ignition switched source of power. That leaves two remaining terminals. One of them is NO, normally open, the other is NC, normally closed. Which one you choose depends on what you want to happen when you push the FOB button. In addition, you can program the relay action when the FOB button is pushed. Jog, latch, toggle. Jog means that when you push the FOB button the relay will turn on only for as long as you hold the fob button down. Let it up and the relay goes off. Latch means that once you push the fob button the relay turns on and stays on. The ONLY way to turn it back off is to disconnect power from the IN terminal. That resets the relay. Toggle mode makes it turn the relay ON when you push the button and it stays on till you push the button again... in other words, each time you push the Fob button the relay switches from whatever it is to the other, from on to off, or from off to on. So for example, to run a solenoid to open a trunk you want the module to always be on so you hook the IN - and IN + so it always gets power. You then hook always on power to the COM terminal so the relay always is ready to power something. Then you hook the solenoid's power wire to the NO contact. That means that when the module is "sleeping" no power gets sent to the solenoid. You program the module to JOG so when you push the button it activates the relay and sends power to the solenoid ONLY while you hold the button down. As soon as you let the button go the relay shuts off and that cuts power to the solenoid. Now... how to program the module for the different modes. Try to follow the instructions... I'd have to write a lot to make it clearer and it would still be confusing because there is both the red and green light and it's not always clear which light they are talking about when they say the "lights will flash". Oh, did I mention you'll need to pry the cover off so you can see the lights and get to the programming button? Yes, you will. Also, if you use larger wires like I did you'll need to cut the opening larger, so the wires have room to stick out. If you used small single strand wire you could probably work around the small opening. I spend close to half an hour fiddling with button pushes to finally get it programmed into JOG mode. It seems to come programed for toggle mode. A few times I got it into Latch mode and the only way to move beyond that point is to disconnect power and start over. Similarly, if you don't wind up in the mode you wanted you need to go back to step one and go thru all 4 steps for programming and pairing the Fobs.

the wiring diagram confused me at first but I finally got it. if you're not using the relay for 120v+, i.e., if you're using it for 6/12/24 volts, only one leg is switched, meaning you connect two wires into one terminal to provide power to the relay and whatever you're powering, and then it switches the other leg. You also have to wire in a little jumper. Here's how to wire it: The far right terminal will have both the positive in and positive out, the terminal to the right of it accepts the negative in, the terminal to the right of that accepts the negative of the device you're powering, and the one to the left of that has a jumper that goes to the second to last terminal from the right.

I put this on my hot water camp shower to turn on and off! works amazing. easy to install and small enough to fit in tight places

Got it to start/stop a 12v motor, but once it gets about 5ft away I can't turn it off. Other than that it works fine. Directions leave a bit to be desired as far as wiring goes. Remote comes in toggle mode. (Press for on / press again for off) I wired it this way from right to left: +IN - Positive Lead from battery, with a jumper to the COM terminal -IN - Negative Lead from battery, back out to negative terminal on the motor NO - (Normally Open) - to positive terminal on motor COM - Short wire to +IN NC - Not used in my setup Once I got that down it was fine, aside from the short transmitting distance. Might have been a bad unit, the antenna seemed a little loose on the board.

brilliant fitted in conjunction with led spots in my van, saves clambering in the back and switching lighgt on, just press a button!! and a spare key fob as well!

Brilliant bit of kit, fitted to my motorbike. Works easily from 10 yards away. Both remotes already programmed to that device.

excellent product. But, how to get a extra remote

Unfortunately the case is not good, there are 4 wire terminals and only 2 small cut outs to the far right which prevent you from easily wiring into terminals 1 & 2 on the board. If they had a better case, I would have rated it 5/5 as the circuit board is pretty good. I will need to return because of this flaw.

Works as intended. My only issue is the receiver case which appears to have been designed for something else. It is flimsy and it was necessary to snip some of the plastic away from the connector to make space for the wires.