Lube Lubricant for Machine

I was doing a little mod on my Corsair K70 keyboard by lubing the top housing of the switches and it was great! First time lubing but I did it sparingly, and it turned out buttery smooth. I’ve never bought other brand lube, but I did research about keyboard lube formulas and this was recommended for linear switches. Mine were cherry reds and worked great. I had plenty left to spare for 2-3 keyboards if I ever go deep dive into more in the future. If you’re debating about what lube to get, I’d say this one will work nicely.

Although I made the purchase in Sept 2021, it wasn't until this afternoon that I used it to lubricate... my 2005 Apple M1048 Pro Stabilized keyboard. The work took time (I'm 71 with hand issues), but it was so worth it. NO MORE "sticking/binding" keys; NO MORE "rattle" noise; and the keypress-action is smooooth (like butter). It's an 84-key keyboard, and the little bottle was more than enough. The brush (two included, but I only needed one) was handy (light enough for me to grip it with my teeth while reinstalling a now-lubed keycap), and the bristles held-and-transferred the lubricant to where I wanted (and not to where I didn't). It's an excellent product and kit, at an easily affordable price.

The bottle cap was broken and the content was leaking out when I received the item, but there was a replacement cap so it was fine. There was no instruction and I had to look at pictures online to figure out this is not a twist cap but a pull cap. I used it to lube cherry MX switches, I haven't used other lubes before so I can't compare this lube to anything, but I'm happy with the effects after lubing the switches, nothing is broken, keyboard sounds more smooth.

I wanted to improve my Velocifire keyboard (which has Outemu browns) but it's not a hot-swap board and I didn't want to unsolder all the switches to take them apart individually. Based on some YouTube videos, I decided to give it a shot lubing them by doing the following for each key: Took off the keycap. While pushing down the switch post with the end of a mechanical pencil, took a small amount of lubricant and brushed inside the key assembly. Only brushed down three sides--the sides that don't have the logo, since the logo side has the electrical contacts and the part which provides the tactile bump, and I didn't want to lube that part to maintain full tactility. I also used the same lubricant on the stabilizers. The included brushes aren't super durable, and you'll see them get more frazzled as you use them, so I did most of the stabilizers toward the end, because those don't require such a fine point on the brush. I suspect that some brush hairs came off during the process (which YouTube makes it sound like it will ruin your switch) but if it happened, I haven't noticed any ill effects. If you try this, try it on one key and then see the difference it makes, and adjust your approach accordingly. YouTube videos tend to guide toward extreme approaches where you take apart every key switch and make sure you use exactly the same amount of lubricant for each key. I'm suspicious that such precision has little audible effect. I'm no mechanical keyboard expert, but I feel like my much less fastidious approach delivered a great result for a lot less pain. (It sounds three times quieter than it was, with no other mods made.) I probably used more lubricant than some people recommend, but my priority was on saving time and not having to re-lubricate them later. Again, try it out on a key (perhaps one you don't use often, like your scroll lock or pause key if you have a full-size or ten-keyless board) and try it out. I'm guessing you'll be able to find an approach that works for you.

I ended up using this on my 14 year old HHKB, and it feels great again. Not as good as new, but close to it.