Electronic Sewage Pump Switch

Switch worked as described. Sensor installation was quick and easy. Set the sensor height and plugged in the pump. Reprogrammed the switch per the included directions and all set to go. Thanks for saving my time!

Sewage pump started running constantly after a power failure. I unplugged it, dreading having to open the tank and replace the float switch. Then I found this electronic switch that does not require opening the tank. It is twice as expensive as a normal float switch. BUT, since I don't have to open the tank it's well worth the extra dollars.I had to purchase a 5/8" drill bit to drill a hole in the tank cover. I selected a location that seemed to be away from the pipes and wires that go down into the tank. Then I drilled a 1/8 " hole and pushed a straightened coat hanger wire down into the tank to get an idea how deep the tank was. I measured about halfway down the tank and pulled that much wire through the supplied grommet. I then drilled the 5/8 hole and placed the sensor into the hole and tested it. Worked perfectly the first time. Then I secured the wire to a pipe with the supplied wire tire. I put some silicone around the grommet and wire for extra sealing. Done - 15 minutes... no opening the tank! I adjusted the pump-off timer to 6 seconds and tested it a few more times.It's been working perfectly for 2 days. Hopefully, I will not need to touch this again. If it lasts a few years, it will be easy to replace.From my experience, a good sewage pump rarely fails. It's the float switch that fails. So, if this is reliable, I may never need to open that tank again. I will update this post later if it fails or not.60-day update: The switch has been installed and in use for 60 days now. It is working flawlessly. We have had one power outage that lasted about 3 hours. Once the power returned, the switch continued to work as before without any attention. I am extremely happy with this purchase.120-day update: Still working perfectly.

I bought this for a sewage basin and pump in my basement. The basin is located under carpeted flooring in a closet. When the switch goes bad, I have to empty the closet, pull up the carpet and flooring, remove the waste pipe and pull the pump. It's obviously something that I don't enjoy doing. Of course there are times when the switch, for whatever reason, doesn't start the pump and the toilet won't flush correctly. Then I would have to shake the waste pipe until the switch frees up and the pump would start working. Whether replacing the switch or worrying about it not functioning, the whole sewage pump situation was a pain. I was thrilled when I saw this on Amazon and I installed it as soon as I got it. Installation was fairly easy, I still had to pull the pump so I could lock the float switch into a constant run position and install the probe. After a few tries I was able to position the probe at a height that I was satisfied with. Since then the HC5000 has controlled the pump flawlessly, and I couldn't be happier with it. Of course now the question is how long will it last? By all rights I should never have to replace the switch again, but if I do I'll have to pull the carpet and flooring up to get to the probe. It would have been nice if the probe and wire could be plugged into the controller unit for easier replacement but it's still better than a complete switch replacement. I'll give an update if it stops working, but right now I'm very optimistic that this is just the thing to end by sewage pump problems.

Made the mistake of previously ordering an HC6000 2 probe switch, which would malfunction during water softener cycles. This HC5000, however, is a single probe design, that uses programable run-duration. Its designed to work with black water, so it does not have the brine sensitivity that the 6000 model had.To mount the hc5000 I used a 6" piece of 1" diameter pvc, which I cross drilled for zip ties. I ran the probe through the inside of the 1" pipe, leaving the metal tip exposed at the bottom, also being mindful of the desired high water level (the tip of the probe is your high water level - the level at which the switch will close) I then ziptied the 1" pipe containing the probe, threading the tie through the cross drilled holes, to the ejector pump discharge pipe ( | vertical orientation of course). I then tested, and was on my way. A rock solid setup that when combined with a decent ejector pump should offer years of reliable service.

I was hoping this would work well so that I didn't have to use diaphragm switches any longer. It worked for a few weeks and then it would not turn the pump off, just cycled on and off. Reset it and it worked well for the most part for a few more weeks. Sporadically it would turn on, off and then cycle on-off again in a few seconds.Today it turned on and ran the pump for so long that the electrical breaker tripped. I can't trust this switch to work so I am back to ordering a diaphragm switch.

Easy to install and works great so far