OARA Garden Hedge Shears forTrimming Borders, Boxwood, and Bushes, Hedge Clippers & Shears with Comfort Grip Handles,21 Inch Carbon Steel Bush Cutter

Sharp and easy to use. They cut shrubs very well.

I found myself kissing my blades last night, so I decided it would be suiting to blast my love online. These blades are the real deal for anyone from amateur to Picasso level podado. Very light yet structurally sound as a heavy rustic clipper. Very little to no impact is transferred to arms though. Surprisingly. And after cut a few yards a few times. It’s still as sharp as it came out of the box; or sharper. Remarkable indeed. I’ve used it to cut grass and up to branches of about 1/4 to 1/3 inch think. I’d say that’s a good limit for it. Like dense tree branches. But it will slice through anything. Shrubs. Did I mention leaves grass perfect? Bugambilias seem carved like a cake. I can’t stop praising these blades. Whoever makes them is in love with their craft as much as I love to cut greenery. Thank you thank you thank you!!

Sharp,strong,decent handles. Managed to wrangle down a ungodly hedge and holly bush. Lived to tell another tale, trimmer did its job.

For the money, this is a nice shears. Sharp, and gets the job done !

Before barbed wire, thick, tough hedges were grown to fence cattle. I have one like that, and it’s 1,000 square feet to trim. An electric trimmer will leave the hedge a little taller each time. Eventually it would need a major cutback with shears and pruners. On that hedge, shears were tiring, and the bumping was hard on my wrists. Both my shears, of two brands, weren’t made to be taken apart. Sharpening was a hassle. They were somewhat blunt when sharpened because the bevel at the edge was about 60 degrees. Shears are often made that way to resist damage. I ordered OARA’s because the blades are 65MN steel. Kershaw switched to that steel for its high-priced Camp 10 and Camp 14 knives. Owners familiar with expensive knives praise the sharpness and durability of the edges. Camellias should be pruned only once a year, so it entails cutting back a year’s growth. When the OARA’s arrived, my two camellia’s were ready. Unlike other shears, the OARA’s have no serrations and no notch near the hinge. The edges are sharp enough to bite wood before it can slide away. Near the hinge, they will cut wood 1/2” in diameter. They will cut 1/4” stuff out near the tips. That gives me a great reach. (Cutting ability would depend on the hardness of the wood.) I took the picture after cutting the second camellia back drastically. It was surprisingly quick and easy. Some of the cuts were more than 1/2” thick. The pile of cuttings was 10 bushels. Then I dragged the back of a fingernail across the blade edges at various spots. They were still keen enough to bite. I decided to sharpen them anyway because if I painted the bevel with a marking pen, a hone could show me the angle. Besides, sharpening can make a good factory edge better. A flat sharpener would have damaged the wavy edge. My Dremel sharpener has round hones, but touching the edge with a hone spinning at 30,000 rpm could have ruined the temper. MY DMT kit has a round diamond hone. The shears came apart with two 17mm wrenches. On the bottom (unpainted) blade, I matched the bevel by adjusting the DMT jig as high as it would go. A calculator with trig functions told me it was 35 degrees. That’s like a chef’s knife, which is typically sharpened at 17 degrees on each side. The edge on the other blade varied between 40 and 45 degrees. I wonder if it was sharpened freehand at the factory. I’d trimmed the “cattle hedge” a couple of weeks ago, and it needed trimming again. The OARA’s weren’t as quick as an electric trimmer, but they did a better job. They were much less laborious than my other shears. I don’t think my little DMT round hone is adequate for something so big. The shears impressed me enough that I bought a Smith’s diamond hone that looks like a large file with rounded surfaces. Maintenance amounts to unscrewing the hinge, cleaning the blades, painting the edges with a felt-tip pen so that shiny metal will show when my hone is on the bevel, and stroking a few times with the hone. This alloy will rust easily, but that shouldn’t be a problem. To reduce gumming from sap, I keep an oily cotton ball in a sandwich bag to wipe the blades of cutting tools. If I wipe a blade again before putting a tool away, it will probably stay free of rust.

Good quality shears and the hand grips work well. Great, simple, and quality design that cuts no corners. I'm impressed so far after using them for hours all morning.

These work really well on some really thick over grown lavender bushes. Cleaned two giant nasty looking things up in no time. They started to struggle on the thicker dead branches lower down, about 3/8” thick l, but they didn’t bend or break when I was puttin the hurt on em. The thicker stuff was easily reached with some little loppers after I clear the crazy stuff off with these scissors anyway. I just wanted to see how much beating these things could take. They’re perfectly fine after three days of hard chomping. However, I tried them on some super thin wispy Mexican grass and the strands of grass just slid between the blades without really cutting. I sprayed wd40 on the blades so maybe that’s why. Regular old “house scissors” worked fine for the grass anyway. These were probably just over kill for the little stuff.

I wish I would have bought these a long time ago. The other pair I had was too big and my arms got sore after using them. These shears are what I would call medium size, sharp, and are perfect for trimming bushes, wildflowers that have already bloomed, and even around rocks! They do the job well and my arms aren't sore after using them. I clean/dry them after each use. The price was good too!

I am sorry to say these shears do not cut fine stems at the tip of the blades, the last 2-3 inches are not cutting grass, no matter the tension on the bolt. I wanted something to cut meadow grass around other plants and while these are light and maneuverable and the bolt stays tightened due to the self locking nut, the blades are not correctly engineered to produce a clean cut right to the end. Fine stalks are not cut and instead bend and jam between the blades pushing them apart. The blades are sharp. they are just not held together firmly enough and are too flexible to perform at the tips where leverage makes the flexing more pronounced. Thicker stems may cut better at the tips but fine stems do not cut at all well. It may be possible for the manufacturer to improve them with a reinforcement of some kind to make the blades more rigid e.g. either thicker steel (which would make them heavier and more expensive to make) or an additional strip welded to the outside of the blades (likewise) or maybe a stamped indentation along the blade behind the cutting edge to make it more rigid. I hope they can improve them as they are light and easy to use and would otherwise be handy but as they stand I cannot recommend them for cutting light stems like grass.

Well built, and takes sharpening very well. Great product.

Sharp and cuts great

Would not survive in an industrial application but works well in a domestic application. Light and easily manoeuvred.

not too heavy to use